Travelling Shells

When I was a child, I loved collecting seashells along the New Jersey coast. I’d walk the beach, small bucket in hand, and find tiny rainbow coloured clam shells, the occasional little conch, scallop and mussel shells. There was also a round snail-like shell whose name I forget. I had a book, written in 1955, that I’ve kept to this day. I read it many times, pouring over the line drawings and photos. 

Shells in Jar

Shells in Jar

This love of shells has remained with me throughout my life. They’ve travelled with me to the various apartments I’ve lived in. The majority of shells and bits of coral in the glass jar in this post are ones I found on beaches in the Caribbean during the 1970s and early ’80s when I used to visit relatives there. There’s also the odd shell from other wanderings plus 4 or 5 interspersed that I bought in the ’70s while travelling in Florida.

Shells in Jar

Shell Book


Further

In an earlier post I spoke about my concerns that the Canadian government is closing a series of libraries in the Department of Fisheries and Oceans.  Since writing that post, I’ve come upon an article on the subject by John Dupuis, a science librarian at York University in Toronto.  He speaks about the issues and questions arising from these closures. Here’s the link to his article: Question! What is really happening at the Department of Fisheries and Oceans libraries?.

And, in keeping with Fisheries and Oceans, here’s a photo of the Atlantic Ocean off Newfoundland from my time there in August.

Newfoundland

Atlantic Ocean off the East Coast Trail in Newfoundland, August 2013


English Harbour Encore

English Harbour Arts Centre

English Harbour Arts Centre, August 2013

Here’s two views of the English Harbour Arts Centre that we visited last August while in Newfoundland.  It was wonderful seeing such positive human endeavours in this setting of beauty by the ocean.  The stones you see in the foreground are part of a spiral dry stone wall, created during a workshop at the Centre.  

English Harbour Arts Centre

English Harbour Arts Centre with dry stone wall, August 2013


English Harbour, Newfoundland

English Harbour

Approaching English Harbour , August 2013

English Harbour is a tiny village in Newfoundland on the ocean.  It’s on the Bonavista Peninsula not far from the town of Trinity.  While driving toward Port Union this past August, I noticed a sign pointing to the English Harbour Arts Centre.  I decided to turn off the main road to the village, which we found to be a lovely surprise and yet another very beautiful place. I’ll post some photos later of the Arts Centre itself, either on this blog or my art blog.

English Harbour

English Harbour, Newfoundland, August 2013


Green Point Coastal Trail, Gros Morne National Park

Coastal Trail

Coastal Trail in Gros Morne Park, August 2013

Our first attempt to go on the boat tour of the freshwater fiord in Gros Morne did not go as scheduled because of torrents of rain and lightning.  However, once the weather cleared, we went on a hike on the Coastal Trail near Green Point,  south of the fiord.  This cobbled beach trail is flat and runs right along the coast off the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  We saw marshy ponds and passed tuckamore forests.  Tuckamore is the Newfoundland word for stunted spruce and balsam fir trees that grow by the coast and in mountainous areas.

Tuckamore

Tuckamore along the Coastal Trail, Newfoundland, August 2013

Coastal Trail

On the Coastal Trail, August 2013

We did not take the full 6 km return hike, because we could see more thunderstorms brewing in the distance and travelling toward us. Since we were on totally open ground, we felt it was safest to turn around.  We were among several other hikers, all of us doing the return hike in record time.  This trail has stayed with me for its haunting atmosphere.  I found it of great beauty.

Coastal Trail

Thunderstorms approaching–Coastal Trail, August 2013


Newfoundland Places Temporary Moratorium on Fracking

Last summer, before going to Newfoundland, we heard that fracking was being proposed off of Newfoundland’s west coast, near Gros Morne National Park. The photo in this post is from a trail in the park a bit north of the proposed fracking site. 

Because of the chemicals, sand and large amounts of water used in fracking, we wondered how  residents of Newfoundland felt about this. When we were in the province, we heard opposition to the plan from B & B hosts and people sitting near us in restaurants having lively discussions about the dangers and risks of fracking. While in the Gros Morne area, we also came upon a petition opposing the plan.  And I’d already heard that UNESCO had voiced serious concerns because fracking near Gros Morne, a World Heritage Site, could put the site at risk.

Coastal Trail

Coastal Trail, Gros Morne Park, Newfoundland, August 2013

Then, earlier this week I was glad to hear that the Newfoundland government had placed a moratorium on fracking in the province until it was satisfied that it would be safe for the environment and the health of people.  The government plans to hold a review and consult with residents.  This sounds like a good first step.  I’ll be following this in the news to see further developments.


Skerwink Trail, Newfoundland

Skerwink Trail

At the start of the Skerwink Trail in Newfoundland, August 2013

Another very beautiful and dramatic trail in Newfoundland is the Skerwink Trail. Skerwink is a local name for a Shearwater, a type of bird that lives in open sea–a pelagic seabird. The 5.3 km trail is near the town of Trinity.  We hiked the trail in August, often near the edge of cliffs overlooking the ocean. We took our time walking, stopping to photograph the land and sea, and to catch our breath as we climbed ever higher.

The trail is maintained wonderfully well with many stairs to help you in the ascent.  I was exhausted at the end of the trail, but did not regret taking it.

Skerwink Trail

Skerwink Trail along the Atlantic Ocean, August 2013

Skerwink Trail

A view from the Skerwink Trail, August 2013

Skerwink Trail

On the Skerwink Trail, August 2013

Skerwink Trail

Climbing the Skerwink Trail, August, 2013


East Coast Trail, Pouch Cove, Newfoundland

East Coast Trail, Newfoundland

East Coast Trail, Newfoundland, with Pouch Cove in the distance, August 2013

On this Canadian Thanksgiving, here’s photos from our hike on the East Coast Trail in Newfoundland last August.  Finding this trail was something we were certainly thankful for.  On our last day in Newfoundland, we travelled to Pouch Cove–pronounced Pooch Cove–to go to an artists’ studio tour. We arrived a bit early for the tour and drove around the town.  When I saw a sign saying “parking for trail” I pulled over and we got out.  There was no sign of a trail, but luckily several hikers got out of another car and we got directions from them.

East Coast Trail

East Coast Trail, Newfoundland, August 2013

Down the road a short way, we came to a sign for the East Coast Trail that we hadn’t realized you could get to from here.  This trail runs 265 km along the Avalon Peninsula.  My husband had read that it was very beautiful.  And here, we had happily come upon the northern most entry point without planning to do so.

East Coast Trail, Newfoundland

East Coast Trail, Newfoundland, August 2013

We hiked for around two hours, seeing vast views of the coast with cliffs and rugged rocky outcrops, some encrusted with lichens of different colours.  A terrific way to end our trip.

East Coast Trail, Newfoundland

On the East Coast Trail, Newfoundland, August 2013

East Coast Trail

Rocks on the East Coast Trail near Pouch Cove, Newfoundland, August 2013


Twillingate, Newfoundland

Trail in Twillingate

View from the trail by the lighthouse in Twillingate, August 2013

I’m not following a chronological order in writing about my travels in Newfoundland.  So, today I’ll take you to the town of Twillingate which we spent an afternoon in this past August.  It’s on the edge of the Atlantic and has breathtaking views near the lighthouse. 

Trail in Twillingate

From the Twillingate Trail, August 2013

 We arrived at the lighthouse in late afternoon and saw that there were trails leading down along the coast.  We only went a short way a short way along the trails because of the hour. Even so, we looked out over a sweep of hills, rock and ocean that were of extreme beauty.  Here’s a few photos of my favourite view.  

Trail in Twillingate

A closer view of the land from the lighthouse trail in Twillingate, August, 2013


Bay Roberts Trail, Day 2

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail, Newfoundland, August 2013

We returned to the Bay Roberts Heritage Trail/Mad Rock Trail in Newfoundland, Canada the next day, this time driving to the ocean and starting there.  The name Mad Rocks comes from the rocks offshore that have been particularly treacherous for ships.  Again, the beauty was intense. We stopped for long stretches and sat on the rocks taking in the ocean and fresh air.

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail, Aug. 2013

We had no expectation of seeing whales in August, but we were fortunate to look out over the water and see many minutes of a whale surfacing and submerging as it travelled alongside the rocks.  This was a terrific experience even though I cannot identify the whale(s) we saw that day.

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail

Narrow Rock off of Bay Roberts Heritage Trail, Aug. 2013

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail, August 2013