East Coast Trail, Pouch Cove, Newfoundland

East Coast Trail, Newfoundland

East Coast Trail, Newfoundland, with Pouch Cove in the distance, August 2013

On this Canadian Thanksgiving, here’s photos from our hike on the East Coast Trail in Newfoundland last August.  Finding this trail was something we were certainly thankful for.  On our last day in Newfoundland, we travelled to Pouch Cove–pronounced Pooch Cove–to go to an artists’ studio tour. We arrived a bit early for the tour and drove around the town.  When I saw a sign saying “parking for trail” I pulled over and we got out.  There was no sign of a trail, but luckily several hikers got out of another car and we got directions from them.

East Coast Trail

East Coast Trail, Newfoundland, August 2013

Down the road a short way, we came to a sign for the East Coast Trail that we hadn’t realized you could get to from here.  This trail runs 265 km along the Avalon Peninsula.  My husband had read that it was very beautiful.  And here, we had happily come upon the northern most entry point without planning to do so.

East Coast Trail, Newfoundland

East Coast Trail, Newfoundland, August 2013

We hiked for around two hours, seeing vast views of the coast with cliffs and rugged rocky outcrops, some encrusted with lichens of different colours.  A terrific way to end our trip.

East Coast Trail, Newfoundland

On the East Coast Trail, Newfoundland, August 2013

East Coast Trail

Rocks on the East Coast Trail near Pouch Cove, Newfoundland, August 2013


Bay Roberts Trail, Day 2

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail, Newfoundland, August 2013

We returned to the Bay Roberts Heritage Trail/Mad Rock Trail in Newfoundland, Canada the next day, this time driving to the ocean and starting there.  The name Mad Rocks comes from the rocks offshore that have been particularly treacherous for ships.  Again, the beauty was intense. We stopped for long stretches and sat on the rocks taking in the ocean and fresh air.

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail, Aug. 2013

We had no expectation of seeing whales in August, but we were fortunate to look out over the water and see many minutes of a whale surfacing and submerging as it travelled alongside the rocks.  This was a terrific experience even though I cannot identify the whale(s) we saw that day.

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail

Narrow Rock off of Bay Roberts Heritage Trail, Aug. 2013

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail

Bay Roberts Heritage Trail, August 2013


No Denying Newfoundland!

No Denial Path

One of the great signs we came upon while hiking near Mad Rock, Newfoundland, August 2013

I’ve just returned from nearly three weeks in beautiful Newfoundland.  Many posts to come from the east and west of the island.  This hike near Mad Rock was terrific. Views of the ocean, dramatic rocks and rolling terrain.  We loved the signs we encountered, particularly this one.  It was near here, on rocks by the ocean, that we saw whales nearby.  Our best guess is that they were minke whales.


Bruce Peninsula National Park

Cliffs in the Park

Cliffs overlooking Georgian Bay in Bruce Peninsula National Park, June 2013.

The Niagara Escarpment in Ontario, Canada is a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve.  The Escarpment runs from Lake Ontario in the south over 700 kilometres to the most northerly part of the Bruce Peninsula.  On the Bruce Peninsula, where we were last week, we went to the National Park that’s part of that reserve.  We took a short walk up the Georgian Bay hiking trail on our first day.  These photos are of the rock cliffs overlooking Georgian Bay  with a view across Indian Head Cove of The Grotto, a very popular site with visitors.  On the deeply engraved rocks are very old small cedar trees and other plants hardy enough to live in this environment of wind, rock and cold winters.  

The water here looks tropical in its lovely pale turquoise near the shore, but it was only around 9 or 10 degrees Celsius when we were there.

Over Georgian Bay

Overlooking Georgian Bay, June 2013

Black and White Rock and Bay

A black and white photo of the cliff’s rock and the Bay, June 2013, Bruce Peninsula National Park


Grasslands Protection

Wildflowers in grasslands

Wildflowers in Saskatchewan grasslands not within the national park, Aug. 2009

Recently I learned that our Canadian federal government has cut a prairie land protection program called the Community Pasture Program.  The government is turning care for grasslands outside the national park over to the provinces of Saskatchewan and Manitoba.  There are people concerned about Saskatchewan’s plans to sell what remains of this fragile landscape at market value rates.  They fear that much of what is left of the grasslands could be lost to development of different types and have started a petition to speak up for the continued protection of this land.

Night Road, Saskkatchewan

On the road at night under a full moon, Saskatchewan, Aug. 2008.

I do not live on the prairies but have travelled to Saskatchewan three times over the past few years.  There we drove through vast plains and grasslands and hiked in the Grasslands National Park.  What we experienced was a hauntingly beautiful land.  Contrary to what I’d heard for years, I did not find the plains of Saskatchewan boring.  While they are not dramatic like the Rockies, the grasslands have the deep, elemental feel of sky and land seen over huge distances.  We felt in the presence of something ancient.

Grasslands National Park

In Grasslands National Park, Saskatchewan, Canada, August 2009.

In Grasslands National Park, where we hiked on rolling hills and up buttes, we saw stones patterned by lichen, wildflowers, mule deer, sky and land in full circles as far as the eye could see.  We felt a deep connection to this unadorned land and to life.

Rock with Lichen, Grasslands National Park

Rock with lichen in Grasslands National Park, Saskatchewan, Aug. 2009.

Grasslands National Park, Saskatchewan

In Grasslands National Park, Saskatchewan, August 2011

Generally, when looking at protecting parts of nature, people take different sides and fight with one another.  We are divided by politics and by economics among all the other things we humans cannot agree on.  However, I wonder whether we share something in common.  And that is, a love of some aspect of nature, be it land or water, light or clouds, trees, flowers, other animals or, in this case, grasslands.  This can only happen if we have had the chance to experience nature first hand in a way that matters to us and have not been deprived of the experience, say, in city neighbourhoods devoid of nature.

Grasslands National Park, Nightfall

Grasslands National Park, at nightfall, August 2011.

And although I write using the dividing words human and nature, I return to my first blog post where I thought we could use a new word to unite us—something like humanature.  Because, although nature is generally defined as the world other than human, we are animals and a part of nature.  If we learn to see ourselves and our place on earth in this way, new perspectives open from the question: why should I care if such and such a part of the natural world disappears, goes extinct or is polluted.  If we see ourselves as part of nature, the protection of other parts of the natural world is really a protection of ourselves.  Perhaps this seems far-fetched or poetic in the face of daily concerns with making a living and just getting by.  However, I don’t think so.  I believe that to save and restore what we call the natural world is actually a way of saving and revitalizing humanity.

Grasslands National Park

Grasslands National Park, Saskatchewan, Canada, August 2011


Geology and Peace of Mind

Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park, British Columbia

Near Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park, British Columbia, September 2012.

My recent trip to the Canadian Rockies ignited in me an interest in geology.  I looked at the mountains and wanted to know what had formed them.  I’ve bought a few beginners’ books on geology and the history of the earth and am reading them with great fascination.  This past weekend, when I was in Algonquin Park in Ontario, I was also aware of the boulders and outcroppings of rock and am learning a bit about how these were formed.

Rocks on the Bat Lake Trail, Algonquin Park, Ontario, September 2012

Rock wall on the Bat Lake Trail, Algonquin Park, Ontario, September 2012

Contemplating the incomprehensible sweep of billions of years of creation and change that the earth has gone through has brought me some surprising peace of mind.  I’ve learned that the rock in the mountains were once under sea, something I dimly recall hearing about before, but not paying any attention to.  In some of the rock, the remains of shells are found.  This has gotten me thinking about the oneness of life, in a literal sense.  What we now see and experience as solid mass rising above us, was once on the bottom of tropical seas.  Water, ice, fire, land and movement shaped the western mountains and the boulders in the east.  And my existence here in this tiny speck of time is amazing seen in the context of the vast billions of years of earth’s history.

Weeping Wall, Icefield Parkway, Alberta, 2012

By the Icefield Parkway in Alberta–the Weeping Wall, September 2012

Many of us are afflicted or in some anguish at different times of our lives and perhaps unable to get outside of our own suffering.  Despite this, I have begun wondering if the felt sense of the earth’s awesome history might also help other people feel less alienated from their surroundings, as it has for me.  I don’t know the answer to this.  But what I’m discovering is that the study of science at a beginner’s level is fascinating and quite do-able and, for me, calming.